I left Christchurch by bus at 7am. Cannot tell you much about the journey, although I did open half an eye every now and again, and was thoroughly impressed each time. By now, I expected nothing less from this country.
As we neared the Kaikoura peninsula, the road snaked along the seashore, darting to and from the water’s edge. I perked up when the driver announced we might be able to see some dolphins frolicking in the bay, and caught a glimpse of 2 that leapt in unison. Woooooow… I had never seen a dolphin before and I have always really wanted to.
My American friend, who I’d met in Dunedin and was coincidentally on the same bus as me, went off to her hostel and I hiked up the hill (now lumbered with my second, significantly larger bag that I’d recovered in Christchurch) to the Dolpin Lodge Backpackers. Phew! They had space for me. It’s a very cute hostel, which feels like someone’s house; I’d definitely recommend it.
That day was spent at a leisurely pace of almost total inactivity; I read my book, had a cuppa, went into town to find Collette in her hostel (although I only found it when I tried looking a second time, later that afternoon – it was miles up the road and I felt rather glad they’d had no space or I’d've been there too) and I went to Global Gossip to write up my blog. Incidentally, I hope you’ve read my mega account of Dunedin and the Bus-on-the-Hill.
So I met up with Collette that evening, we ate spaghetti, baked beans and cheese (very sweet of her to share, although I was a little alarmed by her having the audacity to call it a ‘recipe’…) and she told me she was booked on a Dolphin Watch. I decided to call the Whale Watch people in the morning to see if they had any spaces.
They didn’t! Nothing available! So, at half 8 in the morning (I’d gotten up early to make the call) I found myself strolling along in the direction of the seal colony. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the woman at my hostel had said I could walk round the peninsula along the coast before turning off to rejoin the cliff-top path, as long as I beat the tide coming in, and didn’t mind jumping across a few rocks.
I think I tarried a little too long looking for shells before getting to this bit of the coast, because the water really was coming in. I had to do a few action leaps across rocky footholds that were only there for a few moments between waves. I got pretty good at it, though, and felt rather Bond-esque by the time I got over to the lower grass path (although I was still unable to join the cliff-top).
Had a wonderful time looking at things along the way, it was quite the adventure. I had my iPod, which helps. Gave my adventure a soundtrack.
There were loads of Fur Seals lazing around; many of them I didn’t keep the recommend 10-metre distance from because they were so well camouflaged I almost stepped on them. But, dear animal-lovers, fear not, for I did not.
On the way back from my monster walk (see photos, they do speak a thousand words each, after all) I passed the Dolphin Watch Visitors’ Centre, and decided to go in and enquire, even though I knew my bus left at 10am and that tours take at least 3hrs. The woman was very sweet, and said I could totally do the first tour of the day, 5:50am-9:30 am. This would leave me juuuuuust enough time to power-walk back to the hostel, grab my cases, and make it to the bus stop 15mins before the 10:10am departure, as required. So I booked onto it!
Later that afternoon, I went for fish and kumara chips with my American friend, which was fun. I must say though, I do find her constant comparisons between NZ and the her own country (which does everything better – “whoops their asses”) so utterly boring, and I feel sad for her that she can’t be more culturally receptive. Surely this is the whole point of travelling? Some people clearly aren’t cut out for it.
After our delicious (fresh!) fish supper, I went back for a cuppa tea with the news, a wee read of my book, and an early bedtime. I did have to be up at 5am, after all…
After a rather sketchy walk in the dark to the Visitors’ Centre, I found myself on a bus with a load of people in wetsuits (absolutely NO regrets about not being able to actually swim with the dolphins – it was far too cold…)
The sun rose as we left the bay, bounding over waves in our double-decker boat (I’m sure that’s not the official term). The snow on the mountains looked like it was on fire, in the hot pink morning light.
Eventually someone spotted a dolphin, and we all jumped up to hang over the sides of the boat. Another, another. They were jumping out of the water - it was awesome. Suddenly, the lovely French woman who I’d been sharing a blanket with, pointed over the side, and I saw a dolphin right up close to the boat!
I cannot properly describe what I saw over the course of that boat trip. We were told that we were very lucky to be seeing so many dolphins in such beautiful conditions. Apparently there were three to four hundred dolphins in the water with us… and the light on the water was so beautiful.
It was choice, bro.
